Where Is Poland? | Fashion as a weapon

Chapter 6

Fashion as a weapon

Polish society resorted to all kinds of ways of demonstrating its dedication to the cause of independence. One such way was fashion. Following the brutal quashing of peaceful demonstrations in 1861, Polish women made a statement by dressing entirely in black.

Patriotic jewelry, 1861 - 1863, from Walerian Ślusarczyk collection. Source: Polona.pl

Black Protest

A popular nineteenth century poem included the line, 'I only have one outfit left: a black dress'. In the early 1860s, a wave of street demonstrations, celebrations of national anniversaries and religious ceremonies calling for the return of independence swept through Poland. In late February 1861, after a bloody crackdown by Tsarist forces on peaceful protests, calls for national mourning resounded around the fractured country. Many women took to wearing black at all times, even to their own weddings. The dark clothes were adorned by sombre jewellery. Some of the most popular motifs included bracelets resembling shackles, buckles depicting a handshake (symbolising the unity between Poland and Lithuania), anchors (symbolising hope), rings bearing mysterious inscriptions, eagles in crowns of thorns, crossed scythes and even skulls.

Portrait of an unidentified woman, 1861-1863. Source: Polona.pl

Anna Czartoryska with two other women, 1861-1863. Source: Polona.pl

Jadwiga Łuszczewska in funerary dress, 1870. Source: Polona.pl

Mourning rapidly swept throughout all of the lands that had formerly made up the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth. Ewa Korzeniowska, mother of the writer Joseph Conrad, wrote about the atmosphere on the streets of Żytomierz:

Enough. I am tired: I spent the whole day making a mourning dress for Konrad. Everyone is wearing black, even children, and the little boy keeps asking for black garb. It was only right to indulge him.

The widespread mourning didn’t escape the authorities’ attention, and soon wearing black could get one arrested, unless one had official dispensation due to a recent death of a relative.

Tsarist agents were issued with special blades to slash the skirts of mourning gowns. Failure to follow the new regulations could get the wearer a high fine or even arrest. Black gowns were only permitted for women holding special official dispensation, issued exclusively on proof of a recent death of a close relative. But the public spirit remained unbroken. When schoolgirls were banned from wearing black, they took to drawing black bands on their necks and arms with ink, calling them marks of 'indelible mourning'. As repression for black clothing mounted, women started wearing dark shades of grey and purple instead. Finally, the Tsar’s Governor-General issued a decree outlining in detail what was and wasn’t permitted:

'Hats must be colourful; if they are black, they must be decorated with colourful flowers or ribbons, which must not under any circumstances be white. Black and white feathers are forbidden for black hats. Black cowls must be lined with coloured fabric, never white. Forbidden items include black veils, gloves, black and black-and-white parasols, shawls, headscarves, scarves and neckerchiefs, and black and black-and-white gowns. Mantles, capes, furs, cloaks and other coats may be black but with no white elements. Men are forbidden from wearing mourning garb under any circumstances.'

And yet, the national mourning continued.